Battleground of Mewar - Haldi Ghati

 

In memory of Maharana Pratap of Mewar

Indian History had witnessed the reign of many rulers, many warriors, with some rulers who focused on ethical rule, some rulers focused on heavy warfare to increase dominance, some rulers were known for civil well-being but there are many who are known only for cruelty and destruction. Folklore and local stories carried forward many stories of siege, sacrifice, friendship and many colors of life.The place I will be taking you to have witnessed the battle of two of the greatest rulers our motherland has seen. 

Haldi-Ghati is a hill pass in the Aravali Range in the state of Rajasthan, which is 40 km from Udaipur. The access to the pass has a good road connectivity but the roads are slim. The name is derived from the yellowish tint of the soil in the area. The place got its name inscribed in history due to the ferocious Battle of Haldighati of 1576 which was fought between Maharana Pratap of Mewar and army of Mughal emperor Akbar which was commanded by Man Singh I of Amer. During this tour, I will recite certain parts of the battle and stories related to it, based on the monument we will be visiting. 

 

Let's take this beautiful journey into our history.

Things to Explore

I. Main Attraction

1. The Narrow pass of Haldighati

Presently it is a small hill pass through which road is built connecting Khamnor and Haldighati. The soil around the area has a yellow tinge like turmeric giving a golden feel, and reason for the name. A picture in that area is must have in your collection. 

The rocks around Haldighati pass

2. Roses of Haldighati

The valley of Haldighati is known for "Chaitri Roses". As per folklore, it is said that the breed of rose was brought in by Mughal soldiers in the area, and it adapted well in that soil. These roses have a pink tinge, bloom in plenty in the month of March-April, corresponding to Hindu month "Chaitra", which falls in April, giving the name. There are many rose product industries in the area which makes Rose Water, Gulkand (rose jams), and perfumes. 

It is said that the blooms of Chaitra Roses and Sandalwood trees around the area is nature's way to give respect to the brave soldiers, whose blood got mixed in this heroic land.

II. Monuments and Gardens

1. Rakht-Talai 

It is a garden memorial dedicated to all the lost lives in the war irrespective of which side they were. It is said that around 25000 members of Mewar army was standing against colossal army of 2.5 Lakhs Mughals. Being a hilly terrain, Maharana took help from archers and cavalry of local tribes and villages in the battle. Maharana Pratap was supported by Hakim Khan of Suri Dynasty, Bhim Singh of Dodia, Ramdas Rathore, Bida Mana and his men of Jhala clan of Rajputs. 

Taking advantage of the hilly battleground, the army of Maharana was dominant over Mughal army as they struggled in hilly passes. The battle saw huge bloodshed with bodies scrambled all around the area. It is said in folklore that it rained heavily, which washed all the blood and a lake of blood was formed, so the name Rakht-Talai is given to the place. The garden memorial is constructed around the area. 

Garden of Rakht Talai

 

2. Chetak Smarak

Chetak, the name of the loyal war horse used by Maharana Pratap, and supported him in all battles, till Haldighati. As per folklore, in Battle of Haldighati, when Maharana Pratap got heavily wounded, Bida Mana, with permission of Maharana wears the royal crown and flag of Rajputs claiming to be Rana himself, attacked the enemy so give time, to help Maharana Pratap escape. It is said that a wounded Chetak carried the wounded Maharana, jumped across 21 feet wide river and escaped out of the battle field saving Rana's life. But unfortunately, Chetak lost his life. The memorial is supposed to be at the site, where Chetak took his last breathe. 

The memorial of Chetak

3. Maharana Pratap Gufa

It is said that Maharana Pratap, pledged to free Mewar from the Mughals, and he left the comfort of palaces and stayed in forest. He converted a cave into his training area and performed all war practices with the help of local tribes. The cave is said to have three entry paths, which are confusing and not properly visible from outside. During his stay here, his wife and children and his loyal Chetak was also there with him. The cave was used for religious prayers, stock piling all arsenals, lived on simple forest foods and practiced war training. 

4. Maharana Pratap Memorial and Museum

The museum is built by Mohan Lal Shrimali, who was born in Haldi-ghati and was a teacher by profession. His desires to showcase the story, learning from the life of Maharana, his sacrifice and bravery led to the creation of this amazing setup. It is a must visit in Haldighati as here you can easily learn the complete history of Mewar and life lessons of Maharana Pratap. The museum hosts a show on Maharana's Life through a video and audio journey using idol in a very enchanting way. 

The bronze model of Haldighati was scene

5. Maharana Pratap Monument

A site well developed by Rajasthan tourism to celebrate the victories and honor of the great ruler of Mewar, Maharana Pratap. The statue of Maharana Pratap riding Chetak is decorated on small hill which can be accessed easily through a well built stairs. The place gives a beautiful sight for visitors and photographers to enjoy the scenes of surrounding area.  

The memorial of the great Mewar King "Maharana Pratap"

6. Shahi Bagh or Badshah Bagh

A beautiful garden which is a good place for children and picnic. The story of the area is that during battle of Haldighati, the pass was small, so only a small troop can pass through it. So, on the other side, the large Mughal army settled in this area, that is why it is also named as Badshah Bagh. This is the area where the first encounter between Rana's army and Mughals took place leading to stampede and death of many Mughal men. The area around the garden is really beautiful and well maintained by tourism department. 

The gardens in Shahi Bagh

7. Rajtilak Sthal (Place where Maharana was Crowned as King)

Gogunda was former capitol of Mewar. Rajtilak of Maharana Pratap was completed by Masaliya Rawal, who was the Rajpurohit of Jhala Rajput.The place is presently marked with a small mast of Maharana and a small Mahadev temple is built. 

The place where Maharana Pratap was declared as King of Mewar

How to Reach

The place is hill pass is near Nathdwar, in Rajasamand District. The nearest railway station is Udaipur, which is at a distance of 40km. It is well connected to most part of India. The roads are very good around the area, except for the hilly passes of Haldighati in Aravali, which is good but thin.  The nearest airport is also at Udaipur. 

Road through Haldighati Pass

Where to Stay

I will not suggest any stay options at Haldighati. Instead you can opt for either Udaipur or Nathdwar. If you want a scenic stay, select Udaipur, else if you want to have a religious visit to Shrinathji Temple, then stay at Nathdwar.

Who Should Visit

Strictly for history lovers and those who appreciate bravery of Indian rulers . Others, Stay away.

No. of Days

Haldighati can be covered in day drive through the ghat.

Battle scene of Haldighati - Oil painting by Chaturbhuj and Sons, Udaipur (1935)

The Battle of Haldighati witnessed massive killing of men from both sides. The battle was so brutally fought that the land was eroded by bloody waters. The history of this area is made famous through tales and folklore. The result of the war is unclear, with most references telling that Akbar won the battle, but the heavy loss of Mughal army made it pretty clear that the dominance of Mughals in the area weakened, with many proofs showing an established Mewar activities. It is very clear that, post the battle of Haldighati, Maharana Pratap, reinforced his military and made the lands of Mewar free from of dominance of Mughals. 

 

War scene painting - Maharana Pratap attacking enemy (Maharana Pratap Museum, Haldighati)

India has many stories of leadership and bravery spread across the land, but as a traveler you need to take the difficult roads to reach these places and learn about the stories and create a picture of the reality with believes on the tales and folklore, which still remains as a major form of information exchange regarding the history. The magical resemblance of the stories with the real world landmarks and monuments, makes you appreciate the ways these historic happenings have traveled from tribal songs to books and finally to the articles in google. 

Here, I would like to drop my point of view for all travelers, "Don't believe in my story, Go the distance, Witness yourself and Tell your story", because History is True and Unchangeable, and there is nothing that can change it. 

Happy Traveling !